Guide to Indian Silks: Different Types of Silk Fabrics

At Kokikar, every fabric carries a philosophy, a belief that what we wear should honor both people and the planet. Our collections are built on sustainable fabrics, carefully sourced to ensure longevity, comfort, and minimal harm to the environment. For us, fabric is not just a material, it is the foundation of a story. A story where craft meets consciousness, and heritage meets innovation.

Among the many textiles that India has gifted the world, silk has always held a place of pride. With its delicate sheen, rich drape, and timeless charm, silk is more than a fabric, it is an heirloom. At Kokikar, we work with four exquisite varieties of silk, Mulberry, Matka, Muga, and Eri, each with its history and character. But before we explore these silks, let us take you through the process that makes Kokikar creations one of a kind, eco-printing.

Eco-Printing: Nature as the Designer

Every leaf tells a story, and eco-printing allows us to capture it. Unlike conventional printing or dyeing, eco-printing does not rely on synthetic chemicals or mass-produced designs. Instead, we let nature’s pigments and patterns speak for themselves.

The process begins by carefully placing leaves, flowers, petals, and barks onto the silk fabric. The fabric is then bundled tightly, tied, and subjected to steaming or boiling. As the heat rises, the natural pigments from the plants seep into the fibers, leaving behind delicate impressions veins of a leaf, the outline of a petal, the shadow of a stem. Each eco-print is unique, impossible to replicate, because no two leaves are ever the same.

Eco-printing is as much about patience as it is about artistry. It respects the natural pace of creation. The result is a fabric where nature itself has signed its name, transforming every scarf, stole, or saree into a living artwork.

With this technique, Kokikar bridges the gap between sustainability and beauty, ensuring that every silk we use carries not only its own heritage but also the memory of the earth.

Mulberry Silk: The Queen of Silks

Mulberry silk is the most well-known and widely celebrated silk in the world. It is produced by the Bombyx mori silkworms, which feed exclusively on mulberry leaves. This strict diet is what gives the silk its characteristic smoothness and shine.

What makes mulberry silk special is its purity and consistency, long, uniform fibers that result in a fabric with an unmatched luster. It is soft, luxurious against the skin, and drapes beautifully, making it a favorite for sarees, lehengas, and evening wear.

For centuries, mulberry silk has been associated with royalty and elegance. It is the fabric of celebrations, festivals, and grand occasions. At Kokikar, when we pair mulberry silk with eco-printing, its glossy surface becomes a canvas of living art, where leaves and flowers bloom across the drape. It is a beauty of tradition and innovation, where heritage finds new expression.

Matka Silk: Rustic Elegance

If mulberry silk is about perfection, matka silk is about embracing imperfection. Derived from the waste of mulberry silk, matka silk is spun and woven by hand, primarily in West Bengal and parts of Karnataka.

Unlike the smoothness of mulberry, matka silk has a coarse and uneven texture. Its beauty lies in its raw, rustic look, organic, earthy, and deeply human. Each thread reflects the skill of the artisan who spun it, making it a fabric that feels rooted in community and craft.

Matka silk does not have the typical sheen of silk, yet it holds its own with quiet dignity. It is breathable, strong, and versatile, lending itself beautifully to contemporary designs. At Kokikar, we love matka silk because it reminds us that beauty does not lie in flawless surfaces but in the stories behind every irregular weave. When eco-printed, matka carries the impressions of leaves like etchings on stone, bold, raw, and powerful.

Muga Silk: The Golden Heritage of Assam

If India’s silks were jewels, Muga silk would be the rarest gem. Found only in Assam, this silk is produced by the Antheraea assamensis silkworms and is prized for its natural golden-yellow hue. What sets muga apart is its ability to grow more lustrous with time, a fabric that only becomes more beautiful as it ages.

Historically, muga silk was reserved for kings and queens, a fabric worn in royal courts and ceremonial occasions. Its rarity and durability made it an heirloom, often passed down through generations. Even today, a piece of muga silk is considered a symbol of wealth, heritage, and pride.

At Kokikar, we treat muga silk as a canvas of legacy. Its natural golden base creates a radiant backdrop for eco-prints, turning every drape into something truly majestic. When you wear muga silk, you are not just wearing fabric, you are carrying the golden heritage of Assam, a story woven through centuries.

Eri Silk: The Silk of Peace

Among all silks, Eri silk holds a special place in the heart. Known as the “peaceful” or “Ahimsa silk,” eri is unique because it does not harm the silkworm. Unlike other silk production, where the cocoon is boiled with the worm inside, eri silk allows the moth to emerge before the fibers are spun.

Found primarily in Assam and the Northeast, eri silk has a soft, wool-like texture, warm in winter, cool in summer, and incredibly comfortable to wear. It does not have the glossy sheen of mulberry or muga, but its charm lies in its compassion and sustainability.

Eri silk is often used for stoles, shawls, and scarves, garments that feel like a gentle embrace. For us at Kokikar, eri represents not just fabric but philosophy, a reminder that fashion can be both beautiful and kind. When paired with eco-printing, eri silk becomes a soulful creation, carrying the imprint of nature with the spirit of peace.

Why These Silks Matter

Each type of silk, mulberry, matka, muga, and eri is not just fabric but a cultural story. They represent the diversity of India’s textile traditions, the skill of artisans, and the bond between humans and nature.

At Kokikar, we see our role as caretakers of this legacy. By choosing sustainable fabrics and eco-printing techniques, we ensure that each creation respects the earth while celebrating beauty. When you wear Kokikar, you are not just wearing silk—you are wearing history, craft, and consciousness.

Silk is not one story—it is many. The smooth elegance of Mulberry, the rustic strength of Matka, the golden majesty of Muga, and the compassionate warmth of Eri ,together form a tapestry of tradition and sustainability.

At Kokikar, we weave these threads into fabrics that are timeless yet contemporary, rooted in heritage yet alive with innovation. Because for us, silk is not just fashion it is a way of honoring life itself.